Azur, a brand from Marseille that cherishes art and materials

Experiment with color. Find the right fabric. Color. Then, finally, imagine the garment. It is in this precise – and unconventional – order that Lisa Favreau and Lisa Guedel-Dolle design the Azura collections, their young fashion brand founded at the end of 2019. Trained in design and craftsmanship, the two friends in their thirties reflect well-confirmed ecological beliefs with a rigorous selection of natural materials, enhanced by vegetable dyeing and French knowledge and experience.

It was in Marseille that the designers decided to settle, on the edge of the Parisian flamboyance, in a coastal environment that did not suit them not pressure. Azure is also reminiscent of the shores of the Mediterranean Sea and the movement of the waves, which can be found in the unique pleating of their wild silk. Handcrafted in a century-old family workshop in Marseille, these crepe-paper-like accordions take on an almost poetic scale once placed on the body.

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“Silk is an ideal natural material, but the crease tends to be fleeting,” However, warns Lisa Guedel-Dolle. which adds: “when they are dry washed, they will soften a little, like jeans that are loose after wearing them. It agrees with the roughness of the body, but does not mark them at all. »

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I refused dresses, tops or accessories like bags and hair ties, this ruffling of them still silk (Indian silk that preserves cocoon worms) has become a signature that the two aspiring designers bounce around hues derived from plant pigments. They learned how it works from the master craftsman Michel Garcia, thanks to whom the ancestral technique was democratized. “Painting is full of experience and feelings. If the theory seems simple, the practice is much more complex, because the colors obtained are never the same”, explains Lisa Guedel-Dolle.

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Timeless creations, hand-sewn, dyed and pleated (AZUR)

Fabric preparation is therefore essential. It is first pickled – that is, soaked in a mixture of white vinegar, baking soda and alum powder – then dried, then dipped in herbal tea made from herbs, before being heated to 180 degrees. This so-called “colorfast” paint, especially concentrated in color, is the best resistant to washing and sunlight. Lisa Favreau and Lisa Gedel-Dolle make it from crushed and dried roots, dug up from organic farmers near Avignon. They bring out historical shades such as red hotter, which was once used to dye the clothes of kings, St. John’s wort or indigo, planned for next winter.

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Just one of their garments, put together in small batches – and on demand – in their sewing workshop, takes even a whole working day. Meticulous work, praised in France and abroad where Azur already has 18 points of sale, in addition to its e-commerce site. This season, the brand revisited its inimitable collection of vintage silk scarves, in collaboration with high-end second-hand platform Preclothed. And he plans to complete his next collections by upgrading old linen, cotton and, ideally, woolen textiles… “provided it’s French, ethical and ecological!” » exclaims Lisa Gedel-Dolle. Otherwise? »We will do something else, like upholstery. This is also experimentation. »

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